Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.